Understanding Male Cosmetics: Brotox and Much More

As men are spending more money than ever on personal hair care and skincare products, it is just a matter of time until we see more effort dedicated to their faces. 

When treating male cosmetic patients, it is essential to score a touchdown on the first visit as men are typically physician-loyal when they are treated the right way. 

But if you treat them the same way as a female patient, you will never see them again…

Are men really getting cosmetic treatments?

Yes! And at a growing rate. A recent study in 2016 showed a 30% increase in men pursuing cosmetic treatments since 2012. There is also a robust interest in male cosmetics in the millennial generation, which will only increase as they continue to age. Until recently, the rate-limiting factor was probably lack of education, but now, even males are becoming more and more educated about cosmetics.

 

What motivates men to try cosmetics?

“Everyone tells me that I look tired.” Men typically do not pursue cosmetics to try to look younger and chase the fountain of youth. Rather, men are just happy to look their age, looking refreshed after a good night of sleep.

 

What are the top areas that men are concerned about?

The top three areas that men are most concerned about are the hairline, jawline, and eyes. Specifically, men tend to care more about crow’s feet, tear troughs, double chin, and forehead lines. Compare that to women who are more concerned about cheeks, nasolabial folds, and lips.

How do males age?

Poorly! One study found that men appear about one-third year older than their age, compared to females who were found to be about half a year younger.

Do men and women age at different rates?

Yes. Men tend to age gradually through adulthood due to the slow, but steady drop in testosterone. Women tend to experience their aging in more of a rapid decline due to the abrupt loss of estrogen during menopause.

How is the initial consultation different for men?

Usually it is much longer! Men require much more education compared to the more cosmetically savvy females. Additionally, men are less likely to ask questions and they also hate surprises, so it is really important to spend the extra time to create realistic expectations and foster trust and comfort. 

How do you approach a male interested in cosmetics differently compared to females?

Not only do you have to approach a male differently from an anatomical standpoint, but you must also take into account different psychological, behavioral and social factors.

Anatomically speaking, how are men different from women?

Men tend to have a square facial shape with a prominent brow compared to females who tend to have more of a heart or triangular shape. 

These traditional anatomical differences can help explain why men are concerned about their eyes, hairline, and jawline whereas females are more motivated to treat their midface to maintain the heart shape. 

We also know that male beauty is not as well-defined as female beauty, so it is important not to make a man look too masculine, which would convey anger and intimidation or too feminine, so we try to go for the sweet spot in the center.

What about the hair?

Hair loss continues to be the number one cosmetic concern for the aging male. Any good cosmetic consultation should involve a scalp exam and discussion about potential hair loss treatments, which will complement any other cosmetic procedure. After, underlying medical conditions that can cause hair loss are ruled out, there are many topical and oral medications, supplements, along with platelet rich plasma (PRP) injections that can improve the hairline.

What is “Brotox”

I like to think of Brotox as a customized protocol of using neuromodulators (like Botox) to treat wrinkles for men. 

It is important to explain that neuromodulates only treat the “dynamic” wrinkles that occur with movement of the muscles of facial expression and not the “static” wrinkles present at rest. 

As men start to slowly age in their early thirties, a good time to start prophylactically would be the late twenties before the static wrinkles start to form. 

Furthermore, men often require higher dose of neuromodulators and different injection patterns compared to females. Injection pattern matters because it could be the difference in creating an arched eyebrow, which is desirable in women versus a flatter, more desirable eyebrow in men. Finally, men should understand that the treatment typically lasts 3-4 months.

How do I get a chiseled jawline?

During the aging process, with the help of gravity, the cheeks start to blend into the chin and neck, which leads to the double chin as there is no line of distinction. 

Two possible treatment options, Kybella (breaks down the fat) or CoolSculpting (freezes the fat) help bring back the masculine jawline.

Aren’t dermal fillers just for women?

No. Dermal fillers when used in a gender appropriate fashion can be quite effective in treating areas that men hope to fix. Brotox is quite helpful with opening up the eyes, but the additional of dermal fillers to the tear troughs can be the final touch needed to combat the tired look.

Also, once the fat is either frozen or dissolved around the chin and jawline, dermal fillers can be quite helpful with further defining the jaw for the desired chiseled look.

What are cosmeceuticals and are men really open to using them?

Cosmeceuticals are topical products that have bioactive ingredients, such as antioxidants, sunscreens, and other anti-aging molecules, that have both cosmetic and therapeutic effects. 

Studies show that men are open to using them and it turns out that they may need them more than women.

Earlier, we learned that men typically age worse than women. This may be due to the observation that men are more likely to smoke and less likely to wear sunscreen. Another recent study suggested that men may have a decreased antioxidant capacity. 

Even scarier, a more recent study indicated that men have a worse prognosis when diagnosed with melanoma compared to females.

Cosmeceuticals which can contain sunscreens and antioxidants like Vitamin C can be helpful to address these concerns. If a man isn’t willing to wear sunscreen, he is setting the treatment plan up for failure and I would be hesitant in recommending additional cosmetic treatments that could waste his money.

What can men do below the head and neck?

CoolSculpting has emerged as a popular and effective treatment to target the stubborn fat that won’t go away with healthy diet and exercise in relatively fit patients, involving the neck, abdomen, love handles, and back. The procedure is well-tolerated as it is quick (usually less than an hour), non-invasive, relatively painless, and there is no down time. The treatment works by cryolipolysis, which is the cooling of body fat to break down fat cells, resulting in a reduction of body fat without damage to other tissues.

What deters men from cosmetics?

Cost is probably the biggest factor for both men and women. However, men specifically are afraid of potential side effects and not looking natural.

Most of the fears can be dispelled with extra time spent educating during the initial consultation. 

What about pain?

Men tend to be less tolerant of pain compared to females and may require more hand holding. It is important to set clear expectations upfront, especially when discussing pain. Luckily, we have many tricks to help decrease the perception of pain.

 

If you’re ready to take control of your life and your skin, book an appointment and we’ll chat about the best course of action.

 

Apex Dermatology